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Krong Preah Vihear to Koh Ker on my SE Asia bike tour

Todays wake up call at 5.30am were the neighbouring Buddhists chanting over their tannoy (how did religions get on before the invention of the outside loudspeaker – come to that are Tannoy still in business?).

I tried to get out but unfortunately the gate was locked and topped with razor wire. These folks take security seriously, all the windows are barred with 1” square section steel bars! Not made for easy escape from fires. Eventually after yelling HELLO up & down the corridors a man appeared & I was released into another very hot day.

The heat is really getting to me plus the long straight boring roads is not good 🙁 necessitating frequent stops for drinks also I notice, now, from the gps data it’s been quite a long shallow drag up hill.

At one of the stops a guy told me about the Koh Ker temple complex down the road, my eye was more trained on the pickup truck, wondering if I could hitch another lift, alas he started to fill it up with bags of charcoal they have made from the local felled trees.

I found the road to the complex and tried negotiating down the $10 entrance fee, to no avail. They said it was 1km down the road. Liars! it’s 8km which is a big difference in the heat. I sat, drinking my coconut, next to a guy who was acting as driver/translator/guide to a Canadian couple who were escaping the -30 temperatures in Toronto! He said there was a guest house near the ticket place which did food. So after a look round quite an amazing site, especially the racket from all the insects. I had some lunch and made by way back, taking in the other two sites. The tall buildings at Pram ? (Pram is Cambodian for 5) are clearly (to me) chimneys obviously for cremation, where I also had a chat to a Cambodian emigrant to the States who blamed Vietnam/China for all the countries woes.

I checked in at Mom Morokod Guesthouse totally whacked after only 49miles, only to find it has no electricity until the generator is started at sundown. Bit much for a place charging $12 a night. However, the food is good & I’ve booked breakfast for 6am so hopefully I can make Sien Reap before midday.

Asia bike tour – Sting Tring to Preah Vihcar

Today was an earlish start to get the first ferry across the Megong River which starts after 7 🙂

By the time I had breakfast at The Riverside Guest House Cafe and whinged about Room 1 and it’s tap that won’t turn off and the shower that is a dribble, I started to run late made worse by the crowded market & the banana seller with yellow ones been stuck in the middle. I finally made it & fortunate to get one with just two huge trucks. The crossing reminded me of my Danube trip although this river is nearly 2 miles wide.

I followed Oliver’s instructions & took the dirt road to the right passing the sign that proudly proclaims the new road was made possible with an investment from Steung Treng Mineral Joint Venture Company which begs the question what did they get in exchange..

The new road is deserted and quite bumpy due to its coarse tar & chipping coating plus you can only use half the road as the other half is deep in loose chip pings. Of course the few cars using it are all Top Gear viewers and treat it as a race track. Make sure you look away as you get blasted by high velocity chippings. Closer to Krong it’s still under construction so you enter almighty dust clouds.

The wholesale forest destruction is much worse here in fact around 95% of the wood is gone, just endless vistas of burnt out forest. The insanity of just burning standing timber is beyond me, meanwhile folks are building shacks from gorgeous hardwoods. Nothing is been planted in the vast majority of the burnt out mess.

The day was long, over 83 miles, and very hot to Preah Viher I managed to drink well over 4 litres of pop with barely a pee. With the heat I could barely keep awake so found an old workman’s shelter and had a snooze.

Later, when trying to read Gaia, I found I had lost my spectacles. I and an army of kids tried to find them but I bet they fell off in my snooze which was 10 miles back. To cap it off my spare set are useless for distance vision

There is plenty of accommodation in Preah Viher but I unfortunately chose the worst The Chea Somoun 🙁 but it’s only one night! Venturing out I chose the right restaurant though 🙂 because as I started the usual ordering antics with the waitress, a young women dashed over asked what I wanted in perfect English & proceeded to order my food! Len it turns out is showing a group around the indigenous tribes & obviously well up on the land rights issues as well as schooling, which is markedly less over here witness the kids doing the laundry by the village pump. Whereas, in Vietnam all you see are school kids. Real shame that she had to dash off with her group as it would have been good to learn more.

Tomorrow looks another long hard day to get to Siem Reap for Angkor Wat

Jetpack email subscription

I would love to know the reason why of my 173 email subscribers only 1 is an identifiable person! Is it some sort of spammers paradise generated by Jetpack?Here is a selection:-

groovyardor670ki38 @outlook.com 6 days, 6 hours ago
gorgeousvalley35mj37@laposte.net 6 days, 8 hours ago
skillfulcrook41kv651@outlook.com 6 days, 9 hours ago
calvocyt@hotmail.com

The last twoe appears on spamlists like here http://cleantalk.org/blacklists/calvocyt@hotmail.com So it looks like it’s best to avoid Jetpac’s Email signup option!

Anyway I’ve deleted it now although there doesn’t seem any way of clearing the existing people.

Rest day in Stung Treng & some trip statistics


I’ve now been away for 23 days in SE Asia. Cycling for 15 of them and covering, according to Strava,  1.016 miles with an ascent of 33,843 feet  and 841.5 hours in the saddle. I’ve covered about 1/3 of the total distance to Singapore! So I’ve awarded myself a total rest day here in Stung Treng before taking the ferry across the mighty Mekong  River to Angkor Wat,  Bangkok and down the peninsula to Singapore. Although quite how I’m going to manage in this heat is anyones guess. A bike mehanic in cream trousers!Today’s puzzles are: how can a bike mechanic stay so immaculately dressed in cream trousers and pale shirt whilst fixing my puncture, I was covered in grease just by watching him at work 🙁  Another puzzle is how the guys running The Riverside restaurant & guesthouse (where I moved to this morning) manage it  seemingly with no effort, whereas others guest house owners make it all seem so much work! So with the puncture fixed, pedals sorted, handlebar tape fixed & more tape on the saddle plus a visit hairdressers today  for a cut & shave for £1. I’m ready to start again. But must buy more water 🙂