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Lyme Regis to Abbotsbury on The South West Path

Footpath Closed

Woke up once again to sunshine & clear blue skies. I had a pleasant breakfast but I’m beginning to miss my fruit and kippers which seemed to have disappeared of the menu since leaving North Devon and St Ives.

Nearly made it!There have been a large number of landslides on the first part of the walk. I thought I would  explore the first one to see if there was a way through to Charmouth, As you can see from the GPS I nearly made it!, just defeated by a huge swamp. I would have thought a track could be cleared in a matter of days, the regular walkers would soon flatten it down. However, I guess we will have to wait a few years. So back I returned to face the long diversion along a road and through a golf course telling me to beware of flying balls, well it is mainly a man’s sport.

Caravan parkThe roller coaster continued today although it started to flatten out at the end when you have to walk alongside the gravel Chesil Beach. Once again there are some huge caravan parks despoiling the coastline. I was amazed that touring caravans are like £13,000, that’s a hell of a lot of nights in a b&b. The caravan parks reminded me of the vast plastic greenhouses we saw when Sally and I walked The Lycian Way.

A lot of day walkers today, but no one particularly interesting one guy who was thinking about doing long walks, but I doubt if he will :-(. plus the usual number of dog walkers, it now seems you need two dogs. Everyone is kinda friendly here a lot more so than Cambridge where virtually no one says good morning to you.

After wading through the stream at Burton Bradstock. I decided to walk the next couple of miles in bare feet, very easy it was too. It’s going to be quite tempting to do a lot more of it! certainly better than wearing out rubbish Scarpa Boots, and no that issue is still not resolved.

The final few miles to Abbotsbury seemed to take ages. However as Mike had fixed me up at Peach’s B&B time didn’t matter 🙂 Peach’s  is very pleasant and I managed to get onto their WiFi, which is just as well as T-Mobile doesn’t dain to serve this area. Then it was off to The Ilchester Arms for a great non-fish spread and listening to the locals going on about all the machinations the Navy are going through in these parts for the upcoming Olympics at Weymouth.

Tomorrow I will be in Weymouth, if the weather is as good as today I might walk around Portland Bill first 🙂

Today’s pictures are here statistics here and Everytrail below:

Lyme Regis to Abbotsbury on the South West Coast Path at EveryTrail

 

 

Sidmouth to Lyme Regis on the South west Coast Path

Bindon Cliffs

Today marks the end of my fifth week on The Path and I’ve now covered 545 miles of the 630, so only 85 miles to go 🙂

I left Larkstone House after a humungous breakfast and what can only be described as a blast with a pressure jet shower, easily the most powerful one yet on The Path.

Hiking group in mudI finally left over the pretty pedestrian bridge and started another day on the roller coaster, climbing through the most stunning bluebell wood then along the top with great views over yesterday’s cliffs. I met a pair of American ladies from Wyoming who were only going to Beer today, so I soon left them 🙂

Then down into Weston Mouth and back up again through another very muddy bit with a hiking group struggling. Past a group of National Trust folks trying to repair a path.

Branscombe Mouth was interesting with a cafe and the 14 ton anchor from the MSC Napoli that ran aground in January 2007, the 2400 containers and all the motorbikes safely removed or stolen 🙂 Then it was an interesting undercliff walk towards Beer and the inevitable caravan park. Beer was nothing like I remembered it from my youth when we used to cycle from Creswell to the YHA. with a bit more climbing and descending  I was in Seaton.

The GolfersIn Seaton I tried 2 cafes  but neither could be bothered to serve me! the others ones looked grim so I crossed the oldest concrete bridge in the UK and started climbing out, I noticed the Axe Cliff golf club was open to walkers so after a wait I managed to get a sandwich & pint plus a talk to two golfers (whose mates are apparently doing The Path) and four local lady hikers.

After this it was a mega undercliff walk to Lyme Regis. This part was a totally new experience, more like walking through a forest ,very pleasant especially if you enjoy bird song, personally I plugged in the headphones and listened to Nocturnal  with Matt Darey.

A great walk especially reading about the Bindon Cliffs when a 1km section broke away in 1839 and proved a huge tourist attraction for many years and so to the delightful town of Lyme Regis which I must say is very pleasant, to be greeted by your host in the local pub before showing me my room in his house next door, the Smuggler, struck me as very civilised.

The photos for today are here, statistics here, and Everytrail below
Sidmouth to Lyme Regis on The South west Coast Path at EveryTrail

Dawlish to Sidmouth on The South West Coast Path

red cliffs

Today started off as a low energy day, funny how buildings can do that to you. It didn’t get much better when I left and found it to be raining. 🙁

wet bucket & spadesI continued walking along the coast wall between the sea and Gods Wonderful Railway as the GWR was known. at Dawlish Warren (an apt name) you have to leave the wall and meander pass sad looking shops for the bucket & spade brigade then walk next to the road along an elaborate new path/cycleway that can’t make it’s mind which side you should be on,  before it gives up and dumps you on the narrowest bit of the road.

I crossed the railway at Starcross for the ferry with it still pouring, of cause there was no shelter. Eventually we left, me as the only passenger for the 15min £4.50 crossing to Exmouth into the new harbour complex of flats, which I’m afraid to say held no appeal. I eventually found a cafe in an old Pullman carriage at the model railway centre. A short climb later I was next to some fancy needle sculpture opened by Charles in 2002, whoever pays for this stuff? The little stone engraved stones on the side of the path were better (telling me gorse smells of coconut).

Three Bristol PostiesAfter passing the depressing caravan site near Budleigh I met three posties (Steve, Larry & Bertie) from Bristol, a very cheery lot especially given they were camping the path. One of whom had completed it before. I bumped into them again in the cafe at Budleigh. They are hoping to do A Coast to Coast walk next year so I told them about the lady who produces the b&b guide. Here’s the link for their daughters and better halves. None of the lads use the internet!

Thatched cottage before
Before
Caravan site
After

After the lunch my spirits and the weather lifted. I gave a group of squaddies a good run for their money (OK they were carrying 60kg backpacks).

Then past the amazing Ladram caravan site. Where a gorgeous thatched cottage is surrounded by cravans. I just imagined the cottage owner waking from a deep sleep and thinking WTF has happened. Before I used to live ina gorgeous valley with a lovely beach now I’m surrounded by hundreds of campers trying to be happy. 🙂

Finally the sun came out as I was entering Sidmouth, what a civilised lovely place this is. Even the ice cream shops close at 5pm its all very prim. However, I notice like Cambridge it’s lost the main Post Office. However, it still has a vibrant range of independent shops. Mike at Luggage Transfers found me the b&b at Larkstone House & I’ve forgiven him for giving me the wrong postcode, adding an extra mile to the day 🙂

The pictures for today are here, statistics here and Everytrail below
Dawlish to Sidmouth on The South West Coast Path at EveryTrail

Tomorrow Tuesday I pass through Seaton & Beer on my way to stop at Lyme Regis, then its Abbotsbury on Wednesday followed by Weymouth for a couple of nights Thursday & Friday to do The Bill . Which means the next stop is Poole and the end.

Paignton to Dawlish on The South West Coast Path

Teignmouth sign

Another brilliant sunshine day with no wind, that’s two in a row now 🙂

National Association of Master Masons benchThe day started with an easyish walk along The English Riviera past all the very English beach huts overlooking the red sands. Climbing out through the old gasworks, now skilfully converted into a park with the old gasometer basins made into pond like features (In Cambridge ours was converted to a Tesco!). After the harbour, who affords all these vast tupperware boats? and past the aviary I came across more interesting park benches, I loved the one made in stone by the National Association of Master Masons bench. Maybe it serves as a reminder to get your order in for your gravestone.

Way Marker postToday’s trail markers were 6 inch square solid wood posts, notched out to take the directional arrows. They really love spending money on these markers. Problem is there are so few it is easily to get confused, maybe it’s a cunning plan to get you to buy guides.

Oddicombe Cliff railwayJust before Oddicombe Beach a cafe was doing brisk business selling tea at £1 and cakes at £1 as he said it kept business simple, just like the pound shop. The bridge to Oddicombe beach was allegedly closed but seemed in pretty good order to me ,-) I loved the cliff railway out of Oddicombe, although of cause I walked alongside it.

After a few more roller coaster hills and a few mistakes (Why mention a car park in the guide when you have to walk on the road! not in the car park)

Only one interesting guy today. He walks his dog 10miles in the morning & 6miles in the afternoon EVERY day. Then spends his time rock climbing round the UK. No wonder he was as thin as a rake.

The ferry across to Teignmouth was very cosy with holiday families debating about wether to walk up to the viewpoint. To get to Dawlish involved walking along the top of Brunel’s seawall holding the GWR line in place.unfortunately it ended by the tunnel so there was more ascending to do. Before I called it a day at the rather expensive, jaded & dated Oceans B&B on the Marine Parade, I think i will leave future accommodation to the experts

My pictures are here stats here and Everytrail below (I’ve given up trying to add photos to Everytrail, It’s just to frustrating & unreliable now.

Paignton to Dawlish on The South West Coast Path at EveryTrail