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Biking Africa – 2016-03-15 Steinkopf to Noordoewer (Namibia

Tues 15 March 2016

Sunrise
Sunrise

An early start I was out on the road at half past six, sans breakfast apart from a handful of grapes. After going up the inevitable hill it was a long steady downhill on an empty road and gorgeous watching the landscape change colour with the rising sun. Even getting a cracking image of my shadow.

The long beautiful downhill stretch was somewhat marred by the facewind but still a great way to leave South Africa. I managed a drink at the aptly named Fiddlers Inn at the border with it’s associated shop. The border crossing was very easy apart from the lady forgetting to return my precious white slip at Desk 1 so that Desk 3 could stamp it 🙁 The Namibian office thought it was a bit weird having a bike and wondered where I was going to stay and how long I was going to be there but no problems at all.

By the time I left the border posts someone had turned the heating up to 42 degrees plus 🙁 So as I soon I spied the sign Orange River Lodge River Camp a few hundred meters away I disappeared inside and into an room with AC at 11.15am 🙂

I made it to Namibia
I made it to Namibia

After a long nap I found the Engen store down the road, it’s 4 franchises run by one excellent guy: Petrol, Wimpy, Bakery, Shop all operating 24X7 now if only every place at something like that! They sorted a SIM for me at $10 plus $50 credit. No passport or bureaucracy needed at all pity its only an Edge connection so it’s bye bye Facetime for a while. The Lodges WiFi didn’t work either.

I’ve now decided to follow the route described by Thomas Anderson in his excellent blog that he rode 3 months ago. Unfortunately it does mean camping at least a couple of nights.

Strava says I rode 37.6mi and even with all the downhill I went up 1,242ft

The pictures are here

Todays photos

 

Biking Africa – Springbok to Steinkopf

Monday 14 March 2016

The long straight road
The long straight road

After a dreadful disturbed nights sleep caused by a bunch of flies who kept waking me up. I finally departed the caravan park after 9am 🙁 and with no breakfast. My good samaritans Eugene & Marti had hitched their caravan up and departed so I was unable to say farewell to them.

I crawled up the hill to Springbok working out what ‘essentials’ I needed such as suntan blocker & antiseptic cream. I had breakfast where we had dinner last night whilst waiting for an omelette I drank a litre of grape juice. Afterwards, at the garage I stocked up on water and a never to be repeated experiment 1.5 litres of Sprite. Eventually at 10.51 I set of – way way too late to start a ride 🙁

Road sweeper at work
Road sweeper at work

The road was hilly I was tired and all the shady picnic benches have disappeared plus lots more roadworks where folks exit them like greyhounds from a starting gate.

It was extremely hot, the hottest day yet for me, drinking boiling hot Sprite is dreadful totally drying out my mouth and making me even thirstier 🙁 and the hot water wasn’t much better,

Steinkopf came into view and I decided to abandon the day whilst at the garage slurping cold drinks and ice cream.

The guy from Cedswill Guestouse came to find me and even better drove me to the out of town petrol station for rather disgusting take away fish & chips, grapes & beer.

Tomorrow will be an early start to get to the border, then I have to decide whether to stay the night in South Africa or Namibia.

Strava says 34.2mi Distance 4:08:45 Moving Time 1,673ft climbing giving an average speed of 8.3mph 🙁

Pictures are here

Biking Africa – Garies to Springbok

Sophie's place
Sophie’s place

Well Sophia’s Guest House came up trumps with an excellent breakfast for me, such a pity that the Harley club had booked the place out so I couldn’t sleep there. With a final top up of drinks and sweets at the new 24 hour petrol station I was away with the good name of Garies restored in the memory banks.

The climbing started as soon as you leave Garies and is relentless 7,000 feet in total for the day. In the end the bike had basically two gears the lowest for climbing and the biggest for the descents, there was minimal flat cycling. Nearly 50% of time was below 6 mph at the other extreme 4% was over 25mph.

Lovely roadside cafe
Lovely roadside cafe

Fortunately at Kamieskroon everyone was proved wrong and the delightful cafe was open so I could slurp down 1 litre of cold grape juice whilst listening to motor bikers saying just how tough sitting on a bike is 🙁

Then it was through yet more roadworks. South African roads, the tarred ones at least, must be the most cared for in the world. Onwards and upwards I went peaking out at 3000 feet. So at some point I have a 3000 feet descent to go down for free 🙂

The long road
The long road

The end was crippling as I could see the caravan park across the way but the only access was to go up the hill, over the main road and back  down again all accompanied by the smell & flies from the local meat factory 🙁

The Rondawel (imitation circular mud hut) was like an oven 🙁 There’s no food on site but I cajoled a very sweet elderly caravanning couple (their son is 57!) to drive me into town for food amazingly they even paid for my dinner a great ending to a tough day.

Just a pity the flies took a fancy to me all night 🙁

Strava says I did 75.3mi in 8:12:16 Moving Time and  6,999ft climbing.

The pictures are here 

Now done 1.018 miles and 56,586 vertical feet on this trip

Biking Africa Nuwerus to Garies

Kobus of Hardeveld Country Lodge
Kobus of Hardeveld Country Lodge

After sleeping like the proverbial log I awoke to a magnificent full on breakfast cooked by Kobus, really excellent 🙂 He gave me the low down on the way and made sure I left with over 3 litres of water & pumped my tyres up with a proper pump. After taking my picture for his rogues gallery of cyclists who have stayed there in the couple of years he has owned Hardeveld Lodge  (Looks like I will be 104+-) I was away.

Cafe and everything else
Cafe and everything else

The road is hilly of cause 🙂 with no cafes at all until I reached Bitterfontein and its delightful cafe come antique /farmstal / trinket shop housed in the old community hall. Excellent 🙂

I ploughed on stopping at every roadside table (alas no food or drink provided) up and down endless hills nearly bypassing Garies like the N7 road builder did!

I found the previously booked by Kobus, Garies Guest House apartments and checked into my OK room with kitchenette etc. I went down to the neighbouring Sophia guesthouse to make sure I was booked into breakfast 🙂

Then it was time to find some dinner, total nightmare. The so called hotel first said they only did meals for residents after some cajoling by the alcohol shop girls I was shown into the very dark & dingy dining room with it’s numbered bays. No menu but I could have lamb chops with chips or burger with chips. No vegetarian option. I left, to be chased down the street but to no avail. So I went to the only shop open with it’s bare shelves to buy some pasta etc. The whole evening was surreal to think, I’ve travelled less than 100 miles in the same country and gone from abundance to poverty. Interestingly the ANC have an office here, first time I’ve seen one. Maybe Castro & the ANC have something in common.

I biked according to Strava 50.2mi with 2,565 of hill grinding

A few pics here

Tomorrow looks like a bit of an epic day if this guy is anything to go by! He has only just reached Victoria Falls too