An excellent days cycling . Mainly on gravel paths along the bank of The Danube , the days highlights including a pendulum ferry across to Eining, a ride on a motorised punt through the amazing Jura limestone gorge at Weltenburg and for something totally different listening to a group of guys singing Schubert in Weltenburg Abbey.
I left after another excellent breakfast & determined to stay on the river banks today, so I started by ignoring all the bike signs and headed for the river – where I ended carrying the bike down the steps but once on the gravel path it’s so much better than zig zagging along streets. I bumped into my German friends again, as they were having a banana break. I stayed with them and with their help found the ferry at Eining to get as across to the right bank.
Lunch, with the best brown beer ever, was at the splendid Weltenburg Abbey, I shudder to imagine at the money the monks are making with the restaurant franchise, The abbey itself is totally OTT and I loved that the designer Cosmas Damian has an effigy of himself peering from the dome, a fun guy. A really moving experience was listening to the group of men singing Schubert in the perfect acoustics of the building.
My German friends had found out we could rent our own punt to take us through the gorge rather than the monster boat. (the first large powered boat on The Danube) A great deal too. at €6 each. Still marvelling at the free climbers going up the vertical limestone cliffs.
At Kelheim it was time for a sad farewell to the Germans as they headed back up the Rhein-Donau canal whilst I continued down the Danube. I made it to Regensburg in good time but the two hotels I found I went in didn’t gel with me so I continued on to Tegernheim and the Gasthouse Goetzfried and yet another bizarre internet login system. for a pathetically slow connection.
The GPS says 58.8 miles done today. I switched of Strava in Regensburg, once again it failed to pick up the heart monitor or the cadence stuff.
The pictures are here
1 person likes this post.
With great difficulty I left my bed at 8am to enjoy the breakfast. The Schloss Kaltneck in Schwenningen is probably the best bargain of all time, when I left the final bill was €60,60 including €6.38 of taxes. That was for b&b, two course sumptuous dinner and a litre of beer. You don’t get that on the South West Coastpath.
The route today had 3 pretty tough climbs plus a lot of it was alongside roads away from The Danube so not very pleasant. Outside Neuberg there was yet another umleitung, how councils world wide love digging up streets & putting in cobbles, slabs etc . I glanced at the Open Street Map in the Gaia app and noticed a path through the woods to the river so much better negotiating branches & rocks than street pavements. So thank you Steve Coast for creating Open Street Map an amazing achievement.
I met up with the two German couples from Nuremberg (if you are reading this then please leave a comment) for quite a while, through them I learnt that two beer gardens were shut so we ended up in the carpark at EDEKA an excellent food supermarket.
Tonight It’s the Hotel Anker in the centre of the town, I collapsed on the bed only to be woken by a loud hailer from some guy ranting in front of the NPD bandwagon.
Today was 55 miles at a sub 10mph speed, so I am tired!) Making it a total of 1,312 since leaving home.
Here is the Strava:
1 person likes this post.
Toughest hill of the trip today, especially after biking already 45 miles Straight up 1300 feet the Strava elevation says it all:
Lovely bbq area
The ride from Zurich to Donaueschingen started with riding through vast construction sites before the airport, very reminiscent of when I visited Dubai! After the airport it turns into a gorgeous cycleway along the river with many covered bridges and you get to visit the Rhein Falls if you want to part with 5 chf.
It all changes when you cross the river and reach Schaffhausen (which is interestingly still in Switzerland, so The Rhein is not the border. I made some mistakes and nearly ended in a tunnel heading to the motorway However a did a U turn and eventually navigated around the station and into the country again. Eventually reaching Germany atop the foresail long grind.
How can you tell you have left Switzerland:
- The gorgeous HUGE visible cycleway signs disappear and are replaced by occasional ‘tasteful’ small signs in white with pale green text.
- Suddenly a huge number of very fast artics. and motor bikes appear.
- What you think is a cycleway ends after a mile in a crash barrier where you have to oik the bike over. Or cycle back and take your chance with the artics.
- Open Street Map suddenly loses a lot of detail and main roads are not correctly identified
- Oh. A bonus the hotels are cheaper
So it is totally possible if you are flying into Zurich with your bike to cycle to the start of The Danube Way, bit hairy in places but still an excellent ride. I will put my corrected GPS gpx track up on bike map.net eventually.
The first hotel, thankfully, was full and I’m now at the really quite nice Hotel Linde, the manager offered me a double room at the single rate and the restaurant has been very good.
Tomorrow is the big one! First day on The Danube Biketrail, will I use all those bike line books I’ve been carrying for the last 1000 miles or so
And the picas are here
2 people like this post.
Yet another grand day organised by @planetjones & his partner. Maybe they should get into the tourism business
Today was just a train journey from the local station to Seegrãben followed by a short but steep walk to Jucker Farmart and it’s fantastic models all created with straw & pumpkins it reminded me a bit of the Milton Maze at home. Their maze is however made with dwarf apple trees After pumpkin soup (of cause) we wandered down to Pfãffikersee. Were to my astonishment local industry has sponsored a delightful bathing shed, toilets, diving board and a swim deck. So a quick dip was called for, well I did have a handkerchief to dry on
Totally amazing no dire health & safety warnings here & no vandalism, if only we had all this on the Cam, like we did when I first moved to Cambridge. Now of course all destroyed by the local vandals otherwise known as Cambridge City Council.
Then a return to Zurich and an excellent bbq at the flat. A fitting end to an excellent weekend, probably the first weekend with my brother since I left home in 1966 When he had just met his wife to be…
All the pictures of the day are here.
Robin Hood & his Sherwood Forest compatriots.
The workers return to work, the retirees go on their cruise and now I leave Zurich to find The Danube….
3 people like this post.
I had an excellent surprise yesterday, my nephew @planetjones had purchased a Switzerland day pass valid on ALL public transport anywhere in Switzerland. It was a promotion been run at the CooP.
So it was decided to visit the Queen of Mountains – Mount Riga. This meant bus travel to Zurich main station then rail to Lucerne. We crossed the lake on a boat built in 1901 still using it’s paddle wheels (schrecklich - it was a whole 8mins late) . Alighting at Vitznau it was straight onto the mountain railway that is even older than the boat, opened in 1871 and still in perfect working order!
At the top of Mount Riga we did the touristy thing taking photos and having lunch at Hotel Rigi Kul . After lunch it was a walk down the mountain, admiring the paragliders, with me shuddering at the thought of my last solo lesson where I nearly perched myself on the top of a conifer growing on a precipice
We caught the cable car down to Weggis and then the boat back to Lucerne for a wander along the historic (totally rebuilt after the disastrous fire 20 years ago) chapel bridge.
Then back to Zurich where one of our party immediately collapsed into bed with a migraine
So an amazing day clearly demonstrating the virtues of a fully integrated public transport system. Many thanks to Jonathan for organising it all so skilfully.
My photos are here
2 people like this post.
First apologies for the whinge about lack of readers in my previous post. I totally forgot what a sophisticated bunch of followers that I have! with Feedly reporting 71 folks have signed up to my RSS feed plus on Friday my readership leapt to 191 readers according to Jetpack.
The ride started of as a very pleasant route along the river Aar, I loved the swimming pool embedded in a pond thus allowing natural oxygenation and purification without chlorine etc. Very green in more ways than one. It’s very interesting to see the low tech way of hydroelectric generation on the Aar, every 6 miles or so there are hydraulic barriers that raise the water level by 10 feet or so, the water then goes into low head turbines. In the towns these are disguised as pretty buildings. Neat & no huge dams & lakes needed.
I loved the town of Baden so picturesque with its medieval covered bridge, cobbled streets and old buildings.
In the afternoon it was a very zig zag course into Zurich where I kept taking wrong turnings. It’s a fine balance either looking at the iPhone or searching overgrown hedges for signs. But I made Zurich.
I set off to search for my brother, unfortunately the address I had for my nephew was wrong and even worse it was 3 miles walking in the opposite direction wrong However, I did get to see the brand new Tesla showroom, the Apple store & managed to procure a new 8GB uSD card for the Garmin. I eventually made contact with even more confusion over timings but we eventually made it to the Zeughauskeller restaurant
Total mileage done is now 994 miles with 95 hours in the saddle.
Here is the Strava for the day:
and the pictures
Be the first to like.
Obviously my bike ride is loosing interest to my followers and in fact the readership is now back to folks doing searches that bring up my old posts. e.g. Scarpa hiking boots received as many hits yesterday as my latest post and my Silva Pedometer post from 6 years ago not far behind.
Enough of such nonsense. Today was a wunderbar ride especially the section from Biel to Olten following the River Aar. Many cafes, beautiful buildings & bridges. The route is very widely used by groups of cyclists (although don’t expect a nod or a danke from any of them). The weather was perfect crisp & sunny with a good mixture of riding surfaces from cobbles in the towns to gravel and ultra smooth inline skating tracks.
The bit near Höfli was terrifying as the road gets squeezed between the river & a rock face, so as always it’s the cycleway that disappears first, plus you have to cross over on a blind bend
Tonights hotel is the Hotel Argovia which is an annexe to the Sorell hotel outside the railway station. A novel feature is that on my bedroom door it says that my room is 14.7m2 , Window area is 2.4m2 and the bed area is 2.54m2!
Here is the Strava map for today:
and the pictures are here
2 people like this post.